VIDEO: Headpoints, highballs and an accidental E5 solo

Author: Stanley Hunter

Daytona Wall is a stunning 3 star E5 hidden up on the moors in the esoteric Cows mouth quarry. The physical lower section leads to a rest on the flake before a big lock off to a good pocket and gear before the final insecure slab moves.

Six months ago we first tried it, on my first lead attempt I got up to the flake, went for the pocket and missed, trying again I realised I was out of energy. I managed to down climb one move before coming off. Despite missing the pad with one foot I got away scott free. Will went for it, got up to the flake and couldn’t commit, once managing to down climb basically the whole route (a feat in itself) and once taking the same fall. 

This time we came back with a couple pads and hopefully better climbers. Gave it two goes on top rope each, getting it cleanly despite not fully remembering the beta then went for it, they were two quite different experiences (I’m the one in the orange top, a burbage icons tee of course).

 Lead attempt six months ago